RX8 Servicing & Performance ProductsMazda RX8 Engine Tuning & Servicing Servicing for Mazda RX8s

Pettit Racing FAQs

Q: How will reading this help me?
A: The following information & recommendations are gathered here for a reason; At Pettit Racing we know that having a performance vehicle that is both fast and reliable can be Challenging, Frustrating and sometimes Costly.  

To avoid the C F & C it usually requires that the driver has some knowledge of the vehicle and is able to perform routine maintenance or at a minimum be able to verify that these procedures are performed correctly. This is basic knowledge, but knowing it can enable you to spot a small detail that could have caused a major problem. As most of us know, this can happen with any car, anytime, anywhere; therefore this knowledge will be beneficial for life and can be applied to countless mechanical devices. 


Q: Can I modify my car and save money?
A: There is no doubt, it can be expensive to properly modify your car, but the alternative can be more costly. Topping the 'costly list' is adding an upgrade to correct a problem, or using unproven upgrades based on hear-say and/or web posts. Another popular mistake is paying your tech less than a job is worth. It takes passion and always more than book time to properly install upgrades, so paying less usually results in poor “passionless” quality. This applies to servicing too. A cheap service deal may mean just changing the filter and oil, and not checking your car over totally, spotting any potential problems for you. Offering your tech a bonus for excellence always helps. Many beneficial upgrades are easy to do but can be time consuming, doing it yourself means money saved and satisfaction credits earned.

 

Q: What can you suggest to help me with my rotary?
A: These suggestions are intended to help you enjoy a fun to drive RX8 with consistent performance and exceptional longevity for years to come.

1. Always keep up with routine maintenance schedules, that way when you begin adding modifications, it will be to a vehicle that is mechanically 100% (i.e. fresh, clean fluids and filters, everything working properly, brakes and suspension operational, etc). Obviously, if your vehicle is not running properly, upgrading could cause more harm. From our experience, we have found that many premature engine failures are caused by simple oversights like a loose hose clamps or mixed plug wires. Poor fuel quality also contributes; it can cause detonation that can damage the engine. Make sure to run quality national brand fuel. For racing and forced induction, hi octane should be used, and for race applications, race grade fuel can be added. 

2. Allowing the engine to properly warm-up will greatly extend engine life.  This is best accomplished by driving SLOW UNDER 4000RPM, (light acceleration), for at least 10 minutes. Never allow the rotary engine to overheat; it can be ruined in less than five minutes with out coolant. Even when your temp gauge has moved up, the engine is still NOT at full operating temperature for another few minutes.

3. Oil and filter change every 3000 miles or less.  For hard driving like our test cars, we change every 2000 miles or less if it appears dirty, smells like fuel, when racing or if you drive like you’re in a race. For highway driving the oil seems to stay clean past 3000 mi.   (Fuel smell is most common with boosted applications where the crankcase is pounded with hydrocarbons)

4. Use fuel lubricant with every tank of fuel, this is proven to extend rotary engine life by 30% or more. We recommend 4oz of Protek R with every fill up, (More info HERE )

5. Never let anyone drive your car! Over the years, many customers have come to regret this decision. 

6. If detonation occurs, back off the throttle immediately. Avoid that operating range until better fuel is obtained or the problem is corrected. When detonation occurs it is usually under moderate to heavy load, so if you have to drive, drive easy with a light foot!

7. Inspect the spark plugs!  It is also very important to be sure they are properly torqued, we have seen several cases of improperly torqued plugs, (evidenced by a partially crushed, crush washer) this can allow carbon to get on the threads and cause difficulty removing them. Carbon on the threads and/or plugs that are just plain loose can reduce heat transfer and cause the plugs to run hotter and fail sooner, another problem this can cause is damage to the housing threads and that is definitely not good, not to mention expensive. On cars with forced induction we recommend .028-.030” gap.

8. The RX8 Ignition coils are prone to fail (even without boost), so it’s probably a good idea to change them, especially coils with 25,000 miles or more, or if random detonation occurs. You can also check the epoxy fill on the bottom for burn spots and /or surface flaws. It is usually smart to replace them and start fresh. Relocating the coils to improve cooling is another option that should improve life expectancy.  

9. Now, if you are sure your car is 100% you are ready to upgrade. If you are not sure, it is cheap insurance to have a full maintenance service performed.

 

Q: I want to upgrade my RX8. What should I do?
A: The whole concept behind upgrading is to have fun and to enjoy this one-of-a-kind vehicle. When you rush things, or do too much at one time, it is much more likely to create problems. Take some time and do research, It will pay off in the long run.

 

Q: What problems have Pettit seen that may affect me?
A: We routinely receive Renesis engines that failed:  some of the causes are listed below by order of popularity:

  1. Turbo charged w/high backpressure ratio.

  2. Poor maintenance                                   

  3. Overheated

  4. Hi mileage/excessive seal wear; regular use of Protek-R will greatly reduce the likelihood of this occurring.

  5. Bearing failure, the oil recommendation 5/30 seems to be inadequate, most Renesis engines opened have excessive bearing wear, we therefore have developed our new REVOMAX rotary high performance oil, a quality 15/40 oil designed for use in rotary engines, but great for any high performance engine.

 

 

 

Q: How do Pettit go about R&D?
A: At Pettit, the same technology that won our Racing Championships is used to design, develop and produce our parts. This enables us to provide extremely reliable products giving you many miles of driving fun and excitement.
Aside from just providing extra power, here at Pettit we are always creating several stages and levels of performance, in order to complement a variety of driving styles.  Our 24 hour endurance racing experience tells us that going fast is important, but so is lasting the distance.

Thats why we say "Pettit Racing = Performance AND Longevity, Delivered"


Q:  What about RX8 specific research?
A: As well as years of development for our RX8 Supercharger setup, Pettit have worked extensively on the RENESIS engine for the Diasio racecar series. The 962R series is powered by a Pettit tuned RENESIS engine, and the the Turbo charged version was also developed by us and puts out over 400hp! We are part of the Mazda tuning programme, and one of the few tuners who can successfully adress the very complex RX8 ECU

Q: I am familiar with the RX7. Can I use my knowledge on my new RX8?
A: Rotary knowledge is always a good thing. However, a lot of small shops especially those with RX7 experience, make the mistake of thinking that what works for a 7 will work for an 8.

The engine porting is different, and  the engine's ECU is much more complex. This is why Pettit started from scratch with the 8, and one reason why we chose a supercharger rather than a turbo for our forced induction solution for the 8. Pettit have spent years working on RX8 specific technology and tuning. Beware those who haven't.

 

Q: How Do I Chose The Right Brake Pads?
A: Coefficient of friction:
A dimensionless indication of the friction qualities of one material vs. another. A coefficient of 1.0 would be equal to 1g. The higher the coefficient, the greater the friction. Typical passenger car pad coefficients are in the neighborhood of 0.3 to 0.4. Racing pads are in the 0.5 to 0.6 range. With most pads the coefficient is temperature sensitive so claims that do not specify a temperature range should be viewed with some suspicion. The optimum is to select a pad with a virtually constant but decreasing coefficient over the expected operating range of temperatures. As a result, the driver does not have to wait for the pad to heat up before it bites, and the pad fade will not be a factor so that modulation will be easy

Now that we have a foundation we can see that finding the pad of the right material and heat range affects your braking efficiency. You don't want a pad race pad for the street, because you have to heat it up to its appropriate heat range before it bites. Not dissimilar to racing tyres where their operating range is higher, so getting them to stick requires more heat.

The difference is here you pick a pad for your car based on driving habits, much like you would tires. If you are on the brakes non-stop and generating excessive amounts of heat then you want a pad and rotor combo designed to bite or grip at higher temps.

On the street we want bite right away thus a pad with a lower operating temp, and the trade off is fade at higher temps, (excessive braking or high speed braking) or reduced bite.

Hawk HPS Brake / Pettit 'Super Street' pads:
The Hawk HPS or Pettit SS brake pad is designed to provide you with advanced braking characteristics for the street. Some of the features of these pads are; extremely low brake dust and a high friction (Torque) either hot or cold. They are virtually noise free and are very gentle on your rotors giving you a long brake life. This pad is designed for high performance street use and will provide the best combination of performance and reliability.

Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads:
The Hawk HP Plus brake pad can take the heat of the track, and still provide a good street able pad. This brake pad is designed for the serous street and autocross enthusiast. This pad features an extremely high friction output making it worthy of club racing and auto crossing. However, due to the dramatic friction levels produced by this brake pad in order to achieve "race level" braking: rotor wear, pad wear, noise and dust may be increased.

Hawk Blue (9012) Brake pads:
Medium/ High torque racing brake compound. They provide low pad and rotor wear with good modulation. Designed for road racing and rally applications where heat is between 250 and 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. NOT for use on the road, as they will not be within the required operating temperature for effective braking.

 

What about handling?

Good balance is the key to great handling. Although the 3rd generation RX-7 is admittedly a good handling car, it is still a compromise. At Pettit, we seek perfection, and for this reason, we have developed a complete line of suspension components that allow you to fine tune your car's suspension to your driving style. Check out our Trak Pro series in the products section.
However, some tuning can be accomplished by changing alignment settings and tire pressures.


Alignment is critical on any car, especially on a performance car like the RX-7. We've seen new cars that are slightly out of specification, so it is a good idea to to have your alignment checked prior to high speed maneuvers or track events. The following recommendation come from our own testing, as well as from conversations with customers who compete in all different types of events. Remember, this is only a guide. The 1st tables numbers are based on RX7s, but the handling adjustments table below is applicable for both the RX7 and RX8.

RECOMMENDED ALIGNMENT SETTINGS:

Front Wheel: Toe   Camber Caster
Wheel Diameter: 16"  17" 18"
Street: 1/16" in -1.2 -0.9 -0.8 +6.0
Long Track Event: 1/16" in -1.5 -0.9 -0.8 +6.0
Short Track Event: 0 -1.8 -1.1 -1.0 +6.0
Autocross: 1/16" out -1.8 -1.3 -1.1 +6.0
Rear Wheel: Toe   Camber KEEP REAR THRUST ANGLE SET TO ZERO
Wheel Diameter: 16"  17" 18"
Street: 0 -1.1 -0.3 -0.0
Long Track Event: 0 -1.3 -0.5 -0.2
Short Track Event: 0 -1.5 -0.5 -0.2
Autocross: 0 -1.5 -0.5 -0.4

HANDLING ADJUSTMENTS:

Adjustment : To Increase Under Steer To Increase Over Steer
Front Tire Pressure: Decrease Increase
Rear Tire Pressure: Increase Decrease
Front Wheel Camber: More Positive More Negative
Rear Wheel Camber: More Negative More Positive
Front Springs: Stiffer Softer
Rear Springs: Softer Stiffer
Front Sway Bar Larger (Stiffer) Smaller
Rear Sway Bar: Smaller (Softer) Larger

Whenever making adjustments or changes in chassis setup make only one change at a time and be sure the change makes an improvement. This way you can see the effect of each change on the car. It is also a good idea to record these changes.

Q: What is a compressor and how does it work?
A: A compressor forces compressed air into the engine, more air than is possible under normal atmospheric conditions there by allowing more fuel to be added, thus creating more power


Q: How much horsepower will I get?
A: Pettit's Stage II compressor systems have from 5-8 psi of boost pressure. This level of pressure typically results in a 35%-50% increase in horsepower, for the RX8 with our stage 2 kit aprox. 90-100 hp can be expected. Although, higher boost can be achieved by changing drive ratios, it is also necessary to make sure the management compensates for these changes. Pettit does not recommend exceeding 8 psi with the stock injectors. Our Stage III pulley will reach upto 12 psi


Q: Is the compressor always working?
A: While the compressor is always spinning and moving air, it is not always producing boost. Our design utilizes a hi flow internal by pass valve which helps reduce charge temps as well as allowing the compressor to free spin unless there is a demand for power. When accelerating with either moderate or full power the by pass valve closes, instantly providing power and torque. The majority of time the compressor will be free spinning and not producing boost.


Q: Will the compressor affect my mileage?
A: Fuel economy depends entirely on your driving habits; in some cases you may experience an increase in gas mileage. For example, under normal freeway driving the compressor is free spinning but the intercooler is still reducing charge temperatures and increasing efficiency of the charge, this causes more efficient combustion which can improve fuel mileage. Clearly, you are not interested in more horsepower for conservative driving; when you demand additional performance from your vehicle it will require additional fuel. If you are a "lead foot" your fuel economy will decline because your car is working harder. If you are simply using the extra power for occasional acceleration and passing performance, your fuel economy will be affected respectively. During highway testing we achieved 20 MPG.

Q: Will the compressor affect engine life?
A: Engine longevity is a function of your personal driving habits and how well your vehicle is tuned. If a vehicle is tuned properly and not abused, engine life should remain unaffected. Even a stock vehicle will show signs of premature aging if used under rigorous conditions such as racing and/or towing. Likewise, premature engine failure is a possibility with any vehicle that is not properly tuned and a boosted vehicle is no exception. Pettit recommends the use of Protek-R, our fuel based rotary engine lubricant, even in non boosted cars, to prolong engine life.


Q: Will the engine ping with the compressor?
A: Detonation (a pinging noise from the engine) is a sign that your vehicle is not running properly and can indicate a variety of problems including poor fuel quality and/or elevated operating temperatures. If detonation occurs avoid that operating range until better fuel is obtained or the problem is corrected. Demanding performance from a detonating engine will likely result in reduced engine life or engine failure.

Q: Will it work for my model RX8?
A: The Pettit Supercharger system is designed to work with both the 6 port 230 Hi Power and the 4 port 190 model RX8. To use with the 4 port simply put freeze plugs in the manifold's six port runners. These can be removed later for use with a six port if the need arises. Currently the R3 series 2 model is not supported, but we are working on R3 modifications.


Q: Is the Supercharger kit easy to install?
A: The kit is relatively easy to install if you are mechanically able and confident, and comes with a full set of instructions. A DVD of the installation process is also available. If you are worried, one of Pettit's UK distributors will be more than happy to carry out a professional installation for you

 

Q: What tools and experience are required?
A: No tools or mechanical experience are required, the factory knob pulls right off and the Pettit knob slides right on the radio control shaft.


Q: What makes the knob illuminate?
A: Translucent tip insert brightness is controlled with the instrument lamp dimmer. The knob is backlit by the factory radio lights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RX-7 TWIN TURBO TKT INTERCOOLER
COOLCHARGE II INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

(PREREQUISITE IS A TKT COLD AIR INDUCTION)

Preparation:

  1. ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO COOL DOWN BEFORE STARTING THIS INSTALLATION.

  2. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINALS, REMOVE THE BATTERY AND TRAY TO ALLOW ACCESS FOR THE INTERCOOLER INSTALLATION.

  3. REMOVE THE 10mm NUT AND BOLT THAT FASTENS THE AIR SEPARATOR TANK TO THE INTERCOOLER.

  4. REMOVE THE AIR SEPARATOR AND PLACE IT OFF TO THE SIDE. (NOTE: THIS IS A GOOD TIME TO UP GRADE TO AN ALUMINUM AIR SEPARATOR IN IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY)

  5. LOOSEN THE HOSE CLAMPS THAT HOLD THE UPPER INTERCOOLER HOSE, AND REMOVE THE UPPER HOSE.

  6. LOOSEN THE HOSE CLAMPS THAT HOLD THE LOWER INTERCOOLER HOSE, AND REMOVE THE LOWER HOSE.

  7. REMOVE THE TWO 10mm BOLTS THAT FASTEN THE AIR CONDITIONING RECEIVER DRYER TO THE UPPER CROSS MEMBER.

  8. CAREFULLY SLIDE OUT THE RECEIVER DRYER SLOWLY BENDING THE ALUMINUM LINES UNTIL THE UNIT IS COMPLETELY OUT OF THE PLASTIC DUCTING.

  9. REMOVE THE STOCK INTERCOOLER MOUNTING BOLTS, 2 10mm BOLTS AT THE BOTTOM IN THE LOWER CROSS MEMBER, AND 2 10mm BOLTS IN THE FRONT UPPER CROSS MEMBER.

  10. SLIDE OUT THE STOCK INTERCOOLER AND DUCT TOGETHER.

  11. SLOWLY RE-BEND THE ALUMINUM LINES OF THE RECEIVER DRYER BACK INTO PLACE AND REINSTALL THE TWO 10mm BOLTS.

  12. REMOVE THE TWO 10mm BOLTS HOLDING THE STOCK AIR BOX BRACKET TO THE LOWER CROSS MEMBER AND THE RUBBER BUSHING NEXT TO IT. ALSO REMOVE THE P/S LINE BRACKET BOLTED TO THE LOWER CROSS MEMBER.

Installation:

  1. MOUNT THE NEW DUCT ON THE COOLCHARGE II INTERCOOLER USING THE TWO BOLTS PROVIDED.

  2. SLIDE THE COOLCHARGE II INTERCOOLER AND DUCT INTO PLACE TOGETHER SO THAT THE DRILLED TABS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE COOLCHARGE II INTERCOOLER LINE UP WITH THE THREADED HOLES IN THE LOWER CROSS MEMBER.

  3. PLACE 2 OF THE BOLTS THAT YOU REMOVED FROM THE STOCK MOUNTING BRACKETS INTO THE HOLES ON THE LOWER TABS OF THE COOLCHARGE II INTERCOOLER AND TIGHTEN UNTIL SNUG.

  4. (NOTE: IF YOUR BOOST HOSES HAVE GOTTEN HARD OR CRACKED, THIS IS A GOOD TIME TO INSTALL A PETTIT RACING TKT BOOST HOSE UPGRADE KIT)

  5. REINSTALL THE LOWER INTERCOOLER HOSE AND TIGHTEN THE TWO HOSE CLAMPS.

  6. REINSTALL THE UPPER INTERCOOLER HOSE AND TIGHTEN THE TWO HOSE CLAMPS.

  7. REINSTALL THE AIR SEPARATOR TANK USING THE 10mm NUT AND BOLT.

  8. CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL, AND TOP OFF IF NEEDED.

  9. REINSTALL THE BATTERY TRAY, BATTERY, THE NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINALS.

  10. START YOUR ENGINE AND CHECK FOR BOOST AND COOLANT LEAKS.

  11. INSTALLATION IS NOW COMPLETE.

 

RX-7 TWIN TURBO TKT INTERCOOLER
COOLCHARGE III INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

(PREREQUISITE IS A TKT COLD AIR INDUCTION AND A BATTERY RELOCATION KIT)

Preparation:

  1. LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE ENCLOSED PARTS LIST.

  2. ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO COOL DOWN BEFORE STARTING THIS INSTALLATION.

  3. REMOVE THE UPPER STRUT TOWER BRACE IF THE VEHICLE HAS ONE.

  4. CAREFULLY DISCONNECT THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINALS.

  5. REMOVE THE BATTERY (CAREFUL, IT'S HEAVY)

  6. REMOVE THE THREE 10mm BOLTS THAT HOLD IN THE BATTERY TRAY, AND REMOVE THE BATTERY TRAY.

  7. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTION ON THE BATTERY RELOCATION KIT FOR REINSTALLATION.

  8. REMOVE THE 10mm NUT AND BOLT THAT FASTENS THE AIR SEPARATOR TANK TO THE INTERCOOLER.

  9. REMOVE THE AIR SEPARATOR AND PLACE IT OFF TO THE SIDE. (NOTE: THIS IS A GOOD TIME TO UP GRADE TO A ALUMINUM AIR SEPARATOR IN IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY)

  10. LOOSEN THE HOSE CLAMPS THAT HOLD THE UPPER INTERCOOLER HOSE, AND REMOVE THE UPPER HOSE.

  11. LOOSEN THE HOSE CLAMPS THAT HOLD THE LOWER INTERCOOLER HOSE, AND REMOVE THE LOWER HOSE.

  12. REMOVE THE TWO 10mm BOLTS THAT FASTEN THE AIR CONDITIONING RECEIVER DRYER TO THE UPPER CROSS MEMBER.

  13. CAREFULLY SLIDE OUT THE RECEIVER DRYER SLOWLY BENDING THE ALUMINUM LINES UNTIL THE UNIT IS COMPLETELY OUT OF THE PLASTIC DUCTING.

  14. REMOVE THE STOCK INTERCOOLER MOUNTING BOLTS, 2 10mm BOLTS AT THE BOTTOM IN THE LOWER CROSS MEMBER, AND 2 10mm BOLTS IN THE FRONT UPPER CROSS MEMBER.

  15. SLIDE OUT THE STOCK INTERCOOLER AND DUCT TOGETHER.

  16. SLOWLY RE-BEND THE ALUMINUM LINES OF THE RECEIVER DRYER BACK INTO PLACE AND REINSTALL THE TWO 10mm BOLTS.

  17. REMOVE 5/8 HOSE BETWEEN THE UPPER INTAKE AND THE THROTTLE BODY ELBOW.

  18. CAP OFF THE END ON THE UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD USING THE BLACK CAP PROVIDED, AND TIGHTEN THE HOSE CLAMP, ALSO PROVIDED.

  19. REMOVE THE 4 10mm NUTS FASTENING THE STOCK THROTTLE BODY ELBOW, AND REMOVE THE ELBOW.

  20. REMOVE THE TWO 10mm BOLTS HOLDING THE PLASTIC CHARGE TUBE BETWEEN THE TURBO Y-PIPE AND LOWER INTERCOOLER HOSE.

  21. LOOSEN THE HOSE CLAMP ON THE TURBO Y-PIPE AND REMOVE THE PLASTIC CHARGE HOSE.

  22. PLUG UP THE HOLE IN THE TURBO Y-PIPE SO NOTHING FALLS IN.

  23. REMOVE THE TWO 10mm BOLTS HOLDING THE METAL BRACKET THAT HOLDS THE PLASTIC CHARGE PIPE.

  24. REMOVE THE TWO 10mm BOLTS THAT HOLD THE AIR BOX BRACKET TO THE LOWER CROSS MEMBER, AND THE RUBBER MOUNT NEXT TO IT.

  25. ALSO REMOVE THE P/S LINE BRACKET THAT HOLDS THE LINE TO THE LOWER CROSS MEMBER.

Installation:

  1. INSTALL THE POP OFF VALVE ON THE THROTTLE BODY ELBOW USING THE GASKET AND TWO BOLTS SUPPLIED.

  2. IF NEEDED, REMOVE THE 6 ALLAN BOLTS ON THE POP OFF VALVE AND ROTATE THE NIPPLE FOR THE VACUUM LINE SO IT POINTS DOWN.

  3. INSTALL THE THROTTLE BODY ELBOW ONTO THE THROTTLE BODY USING THE 4 10mm NUTS THAT YOU REMOVED EARLIER.

  4. TAKE THE PIECE OF VACUUM HOSE SUPPLIED AND RUN IT FROM THE NIPPLE OF THE POP OFF VALVE TO THE FREE NIPPLE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD.

  5. POSITION THE FIBERGLASS DUCT UNDER THE FRONT UPPER CROSS MEMBER.

  6. INSTALL THE COOLCHARGE III INTERCOOLER AND PRESS IT FIRMLY AGAINST THE RUBBER SEAL ON THE FIBERGLASS DUCT.

  7. TAKE THE DRIVERS SIDE CHARGE TUBE AND SLIDE THE SILICONE HOSE COUPLERS ON PAST THE BEAD. (NOTE: A LITTLE BIT OF SILICONE SPRAY OR WD40 HELPS THE HOSES SLIDE)

  8. SLIDE 2 OF THE PROVIDED HOSE CLAMPS ON EACH END, AND LEAVE THEM LOOSE.

  9. POSITION THE CHARGE TUBE BETWEEN THE THROTTLE BODY ELBOW AND THE COOLCHARGE III INTERCOOLER

  10. SLIDE THE SILICONE COUPLERS OVER THE THROTTLE BODY ELBOW AND THE COOLCHARGE III INTERCOOLER.

  11. POSITION THE HOSE CLAMPS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE SILICONE COUPLER AND TIGHTEN.

  12. FOLLOW THE SAME PROCEDURE FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE CHARGE PIPE (NOTE: REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE PLUG THAT WAS PLACED IN THE TURBO Y-PIPE BEFORE INSTALLING THE CHARGE HOSE)

  13. REMOVE THE 14mm ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLT AND PLACE IT THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE AIR SEPARATOR MOUNTING BRACKET, AND REINSTALL THE ALTERNATOR BOLT SO THAT THE BRACKET FACES TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR.

  14. CHECK THE TENSION ON THE ALTERNATOR BELT AND ADJUST IF NEEDED.

  15. INSTALL THE AIR SEPARATOR TANK ON THE NEW BRACKET USING THE 10mm NUT AND BOLT. (YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHANGE THE HOSE FROM THE AIR SEP. TANK TO THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING.

  16. USING THE PROVIDED PLASTIC TIES, TIE THE AIR SEPARATOR HOSES AWAY FROM THE PULLEY AND BELTS.

  17. CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL, AND TOP OFF IF NEEDED.

  18. START ENGINE, AND CHECK FOR BOOST LEAKS.

  19. REINSTALL THE FRONT UPPER STRUT TOWER BRACE.

  20. INSTALLATION IS NOW COMPLETE!

 

Q. How do I order parts that do not have an "Add To Cart" button?

A.   Please contact our distributor BESPOKE PERFORMANCE to order. The shopping cart for the UK / EU will be online shortly

 

Q. Can you ship parts to Europe and other parts of the world?

A. Yes. We can arrange shipping anywhere in the world, either direct from the US or via the UK. please get in touch via our CONTACT form

 

Q. Is Bespoke Performance in Ware, Hertfordshire, an authorised Pettit Racing distributor?

A.  No. MGSM Limited trade as Bespoke Performance BUT ARE NOT AUTHORISED PETTIT RACING DISTRIBUTORS OR FITTERS.

 

 

 

 

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